Barcelona’s sundry neighborhoods – the medieval Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), trendy Born district, posh Eixample – are pretty well-defined. So how the inconspicuous ’hood of Poble Sec, located between boho-chic Raval and leafy Montjuic near the city’s southern end, manages to remain, well, indefinable is a rare and welcome mystery. In guidebooks, Poble Sec, whose name means “dry village," is usually lumped in with the gardens, museums and Olympic constructions of Montjuic – if it’s even mentioned at all. But with low-key hotels and apartments available to rent, Poble Sec is a wonderful place to stay in the Catalan capital. Expect an ethnically diverse, working-class community, quiet streets, real local flavor and a slew of unexpectedly superb dining and nightlife options.
- The delicious conejo con ajo (rabbit with garlic – lots of it), among other traditional Catalan fare, is the No. 1 reason to dine at the rustic Taverna Can Margarit (21 Carrer de la Concórdia; 441 67 23). Free vino runs a close second: The large casks by the cavernous entrance welcome waiting guests to a free tipple.
- Quimet i Quimet (25 C/Poeta Cabanyes; 442 31 42), a tiny stand-up tapas bar, is no longer a secret among Barcelona’s foodies, but its floor-to-ceiling wine selection and innovative montadito tapas, called so because ingredients (like goat cheese and smoked salmon) are mounted atop crusty bread, are still worth a detour. Preserved seafood – as in canned – is the specialty here, and it tastes so much better than it sounds.
- Popular with the city’s Italian residents, La Bella Napoli (14 C/Margarit; 442 50 56) offers an excellent Neopolitan dining experience, with thin-crust pizzas, pastas and boisterous young waiters who may very well kiss you before you leave. There’s nearly always a wait, so a reservation is a good idea.
- Although technically located in neighboring Sant Antoni, just across the “border” of Avenida Paral·lel, Inopia’s ( C/Tamarit 104;424 52 31) down-to-earth, convivial and oh-so-local vibe is Poble Sec in spirit. And that’s despite the relationship the owner, Albert Adrià, has to El Bulli, the Costa Brava restaurant widely considered to be among the best in the world – he is the head chef’s younger brother and the famous restaurant’s pastry chef. It’s serious foodie pedigree, and this neighborhood tapas joint doesn’t disappoint.
